Peace and silence at Rooiheuwel
In the heart of the Great Karoo, cradled in the foothills of the Nuweveld mountains, and surrounded by majestic scenery, you will find the infinite peace and silence of the farm Rooiheuwel. Doubtless named after the colours of the buttresses that form the classic Karoo kopjes, the slopes are green and grey with lush vegetation as a result of good rains in this usually arid region, and swathes of pale golden grasses cover the plains where the river meanders for 30km through this vast farm and ensures ample groundwater to sustain the livestock, both domestic and wild.
We recently were privileged to stay in one of the houses (there are 5, sleeping large groups from 12 to 18) on a mission to capture the birdlife of the farm on camera, and eight hours a day idling along the road in search of photographic opportunities went by unnoticed as the bliss of being almost entirely alone was rejuvenating for the soul. Only the owner and farm manager passed us on the road from time to time – a working farm requires endless attention – and it was almost like being in one of our national parks, without the accompanying dangers of the Big Five. I must confess to being very happy not to have lions in the vicinity, and enjoyed a long walk through the veld without fear of my surroundings, and not even encountering a snake despite the intense heat. Perhaps it was too hot.
Our very hospitable and entertaining host, Kobus, showed us some inaccessible parts of the farm, where rudimentary tracks were the only evidence of a road and only the very hardiest of 4x4s could venture. A highlight was a steep and hair-raising journey to the top of a kopje with some farm-hands who needed to round up a small flock of rams to bring down to the camp where the ewes were kept. I wouldn’t have gone up there even if I had my own 4×4, but having made the track himself with the aid of a tractor and in parts a small digger, he was confident of his vehicle’s capabilities. The views were panoramic, stretching for more than 100km in all directions, revealing the green water courses feeding the steady river that flows through the valleys, and patches of cultivated fields among the otherwise untouched wildness.
Verreaux’s eagles soared above distant crags and three wildebeest were outlined against the skyline on the opposite side of the kloof. The farm-hands jumped off the back and set off across the summit, guided via radio by Kobus, who could see them with the aid of binoculars. It was fascinating to watch how easily they traversed the kopje, rounded up the errant rams and drove them straight down the slope. A sheep dog could not have done a better job, and they all reached the camp before we had slowly wound our way back down, more hair-raisingly than the trip up. It was an adventure not to be missed.
The farm offers hiking, birding, horse trails, and hunting, and a break from the busy world out there. The doors don’t lock – some don’t even close – and it is the perfect place to experience the vast silence. It is geared for large groups (self-catering), and recently voted best value for money Guest Farm in the area. High clearance and/or 4x4s are recommended to enjoy the best of the Karoo. It is not for the faint-hearted.
